Emergency Message To ALL Patriots...
WATCH THIS NOW OR HATE YOURSELF LATER!
The Family Survival Course - Watch The VIDEO - CLICK HERE!!!
 - share!!! 

Hello everyone!

It's been awhile, but I am back in the saddle again, so to speak.  I had to have a surgery on my neck, which caused me to lose track of the site. In addition, I was laid off of my real world job, and was out of work for a couple of months. I recently found employment full time, and have been working an average of 20 hours of overtime per week over the past few months, to bring my family finances where they needed to be, while making sure the site was paid for as well.

Anyhow, enough about my small struggle. I just wanted to let you know that I have been rolling through a lot of new pages on the site, and reading comments posted for the past few months. I am really glad several of you have started, to really come together, to help each other with tips on survival, and have decided to help in contributing in real sharing of knowledge here - Heck, that's why I started the site in the first place!

However, in reading the new posts. I have found several ads for websites, that have absolutely nothing to do with the theme of this site. In addition, I have found several meaningless plugs for affiliate sites and such. I have decided to start deleting some of this garbage content. I have also started to delete the members who wrote it.

If there are other members out there who would like to help with this type of stuff, and would like to help with welcoming new members. I would be glad to know, who you are! Let me know, and based on your history here - I will be glad to give you Moderator status.

So, I plan to start adding more content to the site. I would be very happy to have members suggest what they would like to see! I will be glad to know your ideas. I have a few myself, and plan to add more information, but it never hurts to have more ideas from others. Especially, from the members of this site!

For those of you I didn't get to meet yet - WELCOME TO THE SITE!  Sharing of survival knowledge is always welcome - please consider reading the following links, if you haven't already.    :  )

http://www.aliveafter.com/about-aliveafter

http://www.aliveafter.com/external-links-policy

. you have to think this was also about 13 yrs ago. almost seems lot longer. It wasn't easy and at first it was tiring, painful and had me cursing a many of days. after a time and i started getting use to the work it got easier. and didn't take that long.
Having no water was not really a big deal. We lived in the country and across the river for a state park. The state park had no fees for anything on it. not only did we have the river there was a lot of water ways off of it. even some natural springs depending on where you was. we collected milk jugs and soft drink bottle, back when there was a thing as a 3 litter bottle. we would fill all them up in any of the near by water ways for free. at the house we has shelves that lined the kitchen we keep them on.
Shower was not that big a deal. in the summer we would either got to the shower stalls at the park. or we would go to the river and bath after we got water. yes we wore bathing suits and would wash under the swim suits. in the winter time we would heat up water on a kerosene heater or a outside fire and put in the tub and then add cold water as needed. the bathing order went from cleaner to dirty. the kids first, then me and the jackass (personal and i will only refer to him as jackass). ALWAYS hot water then cold. if you put cold water in first then the hot you will usually have to wait a long while for the water to cool down enough to bath.
Cooking was a learning thing that i still have not gotten down. my dad gave us a coleman propane camping stove that we used. we also used the kerosene heater in the winter but it was only good to heat up food not really cook it. when we couldn't afford propane for the stove jackass would go into the thicket and get some twigs and tree limbs to build a fire, we had gotten a old rusted up charcoal grill we took the cooking rack out of it to use over the fire. i've never actually cook this way so i can not help with open flame cooking.
Heat i'm sure you have guessed it we use a kerosene heater when we could afford kerosene. when we was running low we would stop night use of it and everyone would pile in one bed with every blanket we owned on the bed. if we was out we did the same at night and even wore our winter clothes and coats all the time.
Washing clothes was done in the kitchen sink, by rubbing the clothes against it's self. one place we lived had 3 trees outside that i tired a rope too so i could throw clothes over the line. we didn't have clothes pins. In the other place we didn't have any trees, or clothes line or posts. i would take blankets out side in the sun and lay them across the ground and cars and put the clean clothes on them to dry. when it rained i would hang what i could on the shower rod in the bathroom which was not very much at all. if you over hang they will take way to long to dry. The worse and painful part of this is the sores and blisters on your hands.
Food was worse... jackass refused to work and would not let me work. so government refused to help. to keep them from finding out we was living without water and power we had used jackass' mothers address. because it is against the law to live this way with kids. his "job" was taking off scrap metal which got maybe $10 a day on a good day. most our dinners was pinto beans. a local church found out and would bring out two bags of food every week. Most the time we didn't need a fridge because we didn't have the money for food. when we did it keep in a cooler and in the winter we had a cage with a door that we would put stuff in. We never had any animals in it so i guess it worked for it's purpose. We did fish but often didn't catch much because we had to go around the scrape metal pickups.
clothing was given to us from local churches, babies was cloth diapered, female products was homemade cloth as well.
This is pretty much it. That's about all i can remember. if i have left something out or you have questions feel free to ask. 

The moral of the story - Sometimes a photos can speak a thousand words! Additionally, this should convince you to have faith in your ability to start a fire no matter what your experience level...

Start by getting a nice sized piece of aluminum foil. Use clear lake or pond ice, if available a rain collector may provide clear water as well. To practice, boil water for 10 minutes to remove gas. Let it cool, then boil 10 minutes again. Let it cool again, then freeze slowly.

Shape the ice lens for fire making. First shave with a knife to get the rough shape of a lens. Your ultimate goal is to shape the ice so each side has a slightly curved shape to it.
 

If you do not have a knife you can You can also grind your ice fire lens on cement or a stone. Just be careful not to break it!

Finish shaping your ice fire lens, by using the heat of your hand to melt the ice lens smooth. Alternatively, if you are very careful using a small lighter can also be very effective.

The edge of your lens should look something like this. Actually, try to make the curves of each side a bit thicker than mine. I was in a hurry.

   Locate tinder that is completely dry and finely divided. With the sun at its highest in the sky hold your lens perpendicular to the sun and move it up and down to focus the brightest spot of light onto your tinder. Be careful to avoid dripping water onto your tinder. The tinder will first smoke and then ignite. Carefully add more tinder and very small sticks until a good fire is established!

YOU THOUGHT I WAS FULL OF IT BECAUSE OF THE TITLE OF THIS POST!!  ; )

DISPOSAL OF HUMAN WASTES

To preserve health and morale in a shelter without a toilet or special chemicals for treatment of excrement and urine, human wastes should be removed before they produce much gas. A garbage can with a lid or a bucket covered with plastic will not hold the pressurized gas produced by rotting excrement. The following expedient means of disposal are listed in increasing order of effectiveness.

Use a 5-gallon paint can, a bucket, or a large waterproof wastebasket to collect both urine and excrement. Use and keep it near the air-exhaust end of the shelter. Keep it tightly covered when not in use: a piece of plastic tied over the top keeps out insects and reduces odors. When such waste containers are full or begin to stink badly while covered, put them outside the shelter still covered to keep out flies.

For some people, especially the aged, bringing a toilet seat from home would be justified. Padding on the edge of the bucket also helps those who have to sit down. An improvised seat of plywood or board serves well.

If only one container is available and is almost filled, periodically dump the wastes outside. Before a disaster strikes, people who plan to stay in a shelter should dig a waste-disposal pit if they do not have sufficient waste containers for weeks of shelter occupancy. The pit should be located about 3 feet from the shelter in the down-wind direction. This usually will be the air exhaust end of an earth-covered shelter. The pit should be surrounded by a ring of mounded, packed earth about 6 inches high, to keep surface water from heavy rains from running into it.

Have all occupants only urinate in the bucket, and defecate into a piece of plastic. Urine contains few harmful organisms and can be safely dumped outside.
 

PERSONAL POSSESSIONS

Toothbrushes are not boiled or otherwise disinfected after being used, because we all develop considerable resistance to our own infective organisms. For the same reason, each individual should have his own personal drinking cup, bowl, and spoon. They should be cleaned as well as possible and kept covered when not in use.

PREVENTION OF SKIN DISEASES

In crowded shelters, especially during hot weather, skin diseases are likely to be a more serious problem than is generally recognized. The importance of learning how to prevent skin diseases was made apparent by one of the very few shelter- occupancy tests to be conducted in the summer without air conditioning. This was a Navy test in which 99 men lived for 12 days in an underground shelter cooled only with outdoor summer air. The incidence of skin complaints was high, even though medical treatment was available on a daily basis. The total number of reports to sick call was 560; 34 of these 99 healthy young men contracted heat rash and 23 had other skin complaints such as fungus infections. However, these sailors lived in an inadequately ventilated shelter and did not cleanse their sweaty skins or use the other methods listed below for preventing skin troubles.

Even in shelters that are skillfully ventilated with adequate outdoor air, skin diseases will be a serious problem especially in hot weather unless special hygiene measures are followed. Humid heat and heat rash increase susceptibility to skin diseases. Most of the following measures for preventing skin diseases have been practiced by jungle natives for thousands of years.

° Wash off sweat and dead skin. (When it is hot and humid, dead skin is continuously rubbing and flaking off and starting to decay.) Many jungle natives rinse their bodies several times a day. Bathing several times a day with soap is harmful in humid heat: the rapid loss of normal skin oils is one of the causes of skin diseases.

Your skin can be kept fairly clean by rinsing off each day with just a cup of water, while rubbing gently with a very small cloth. A 6-inch square of bedsheet cloth serves well. So that you can dispose of the dirty water afterwards, wash yourself while standing on a piece of plastic with its edges held up slightly. (Place sticks or narrow boards under the edges.) Use about two-thirds of the precious water for the first rinse, starting from the face down and gently rubbing neck, armpits, stomach, groin, buttocks, and feet with a washcloth. Then use the remaining water to rinse off again, using bare fingers. If boiling water is available, sterilize washcloths every day by boiling them for a few minutes.

° Sleep as cool and bare as practical, to dry the maximum skin area.

° If practical, sit and sleep only where other members of your family do and avoid use of bedding by more than one family.

° Avoid infection from toilet seats by disinfecting with a strong chlorine solution and then rinsing, by covering with paper, or by not sitting down.

° Wash or disinfect clothing as often as practical, especially underwear and socks. Disinfecting clothing, not laundering it, is the most important health objective under difficult shelter conditions. Dipping clothing into boiling water disinfects it. Unless plenty of water is available for rinsing, do not disinfect clothing by putting it in a chlorine bleach solution.

° Wear shoes or sandals when walking about, to prevent fungus infections of the feet.

CONTROL OF INSECTS

Insect sprays used in high-protection-factor shelters are likely to cause more problems than they eliminate. Poisonous insecticides should be used with caution. Insect repellents on the skin and clothing are generally helpful, but not likely to be in sufficient supply to last for weeks or months. Some insect problems and simple means of controlling them are described below.

Mosquitoes would multiply rapidly after a disaster event, because normal control measures would not be in effect. Using insect screen or mosquito netting to cover the ventilation openings of a shelter is the best way to keep out mosquitoes, flies, and all larger insects. The lack of insect screening-when it would be too late to obtain any-could result in more harassment, discomfort and possible disease than most people accustomed to modern living are likely to imagine. However, if the shelter has no air pump, it is impractical to use screens that obstruct the free movement of vital air except in cold weather.

The fly population would explode after a major disaster. Dead animals and bodies would likely be the outcome. Trillions of flies would breed in the dead.

If you have prudently kept a can of modern fly bait in your survival supplies, a little sprinkled on top of the plastic covering can kill literally thousands of flies.

Shelter occupants should make every effort to prevent flies from reaching disease-spreading human wastes.

Ants, especially in the warmer parts of the country, could drive people out of expedient shelters. The best prevention is to try to find a shelter-building site that is not near an ant nest, if shelter occupants are careful in storing food and eating, ants are less likely to become a problem.

Ticks and chiggers are usually found on grass and low bushes. To avoid carrying these pests into the shelter, do not bring grass or dead leaves into your shelter for bedding except in freezing weather. Cut leafy branches high above the ground: few pests live in tall vegetation.

This is taken from my blog. I know in a end of the world type of situation you may not have a plunger but this is a alternative way to wash your clothes if needed.

Ok this is where people are probably going to start calling me crazy. If they have started already. But hear me out before you make up your minds about me.

I have started using this method of washing when my husband is at work. because he don't care for the idea. As most my readers know my husband tends to be modern way more then i am. Which is way we have the internet for me to be able to post my craziness here.

I have started using this to wash clothes. Yeah it's more work. and it actually takes time because you don't just throw your clothes in the washer and walk off. It is even a good work out for the people that want to work out but just don't have the time to go to the gym. i usually do this in the bathroom. I was using the bathtub. I think this week i will use a couple totes I got from Sam's Club. Put your water, detergent and clothes in one and let soak for a little while. I normally start with the smallest least dirty clothes and work down the line.

So it would be white clothes first. While they are soaking i will fill the other tote up with water for the rinse. then i take a clean plunger. and start using it in the water to agitate the water and clothes just like the washing machine does. Do this for a while checking the clothes as you go. common sense tells you more clothes the longer it will take agitating it to get them clean. If you spot a stain use Fels Naptha or Ivory rub this on the stain and rub the spot together with the fabric. then put it back in the water and agitate it some more. When you get the clothes clean wring them out over the wash water the best you can.

Put the clean clothes in the rinse water as you wring them. after you get all the clothes out of the wash tote. Put a new load in it. while the new load is soaking using the plunger to agitate the rinse water. Rinsing don't take as long as the wash does. of you can do one that i do the most. since i do it in the tub. i will put the washed clothes in the tub itself and rinse them one at a time. you don't have to use the plunger doing it this way. Just run the clothes through the rinse tote and swirl it around several times and move it around really good. when your wring it this time you should not have any suds at all.

If you have a wringer your better them me. If not then for the small clothes you can take a clean dry towel fold it in half lay the small items on one half the towel and roll it up. then take a rolling pin and go over the towel a couple time to get as much water out as you can. I have heard that you can use the mop wringers and that they are cheaper then using a laundry wringer but i have not tried it so i don't know.

You will want to get as much water out of your clothes as you can. the more water you get out the better.

also when it comes to drying. I have noticed that if you hang them late in the day and leave them out at night they are not as rough. now i have not done this in the summer so i don't know if it would work this way through the hot day. Today i hung clothes out and they will be there till tomorrow when i got to hang another load. then i will start pulling today's clothes in.
 

Potatoes are low in fat, packed with vitamins and minerals and make you feel full so you are less tempted to nibble on sugary desserts.

My life wouldn’t be the same without the humble spud. I love potatoes. Roasted, baked, mashed or ‘new’ potatoes done in foil on the barbecue with a little butter, fresh herbs, garlic clove and a few shallots are to die for. Potatoes are low in fat (it’s what we add to them that makes them a diet nightmare); they are packed with vitamins and minerals and make you feel full so you are less tempted to nibble on sugary desserts.

Growing spuds has to be one of the easiest things to do and so rewarding. You can grow them in a bucket even (a great project for kids).

Spuds like loose, sandy soil, slightly on the acidic side with good drainage and aeration and lots of sun.

Although I use manure in the rest of the garden I stay away from adding it to my potato bed because it tends to encourage scab as does lime. In the fall I add leaf mold to my raised beds and just this last week I threw in a little bit of Sea Soil, some peat moss, glacial rock dust (for phosphate) and a whole lot of coconut coir, turning it all in to make a nice, loose soil.

When you get your seed potatoes from the garden centre keep them in a dry, slightly warm yet dark place so that the ‘eyes’ can sprout (I use a paper bag). This is called ‘chitting’. When the sprouts are about half an inch long (or at least showing some life) cut the potato with a clean, sharp knife into a few pieces, each piece having at least a couple of good sprouts. The smaller spuds you can plant whole.

I plant each piece about three inches deep and about twelve inches apart in a trench about a foot deep.

Once the potato plant grows about six inches you can start hilling them, piling more soil into the trench around the plant, leaving a couple of inches showing. Do this again as the plant grows until it reaches the top of the trench. This stops the sun reaching the spuds that will grow just under the surface of the soil. You can also use straw to mulch your spud bed instead of doing the trench method. Plant the pieces just under the soil and then cover with a thick layer of straw. This keeps the soil warm and also keeps the sunlight away from the growing tubers.

Water is essential to your yield of spuds especially during the dry summer months as they grow near the surface and tend to dry out quickly. In late spring I add a handful of good, organic vegetable fertilizer. When the plant flowers and the blossoms die off then that’s the first sign that you can start to harvest. I begin digging early because I can’t wait to have that first taste. Carefully lift the plant out and then either dig around with your hands or use a pitchfork to find the potatoes.

Digging them up is like hunting for Easter eggs, especially the fun purple varieties. You never know how many you’ll find or what size and you always wonder if there’s another one that you missed.

Once harvested potatoes should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. When exposed to sunlight (either poking up through the ground or on the kitchen counter) the potato goes through a chemical change that results in turning the skin green (the potatoes, not yours). This green skin is toxic and should be peeled or cut away or just discard the spud if you’re particularly cautious. I usually leave my spuds in the ground until I’m ready to use them as they keep really well there. I’ve been known to fork through the soil in the middle of winter for that last crop.

Beware the wireworm, though. It’s a golden yellow, tough skinned, wiry worm that loves to burrow through a spud. If you see them when you’re turning your soil just pluck them out. They’re not easy to squish but have no defense against the sharp edge of a trowel.

I use nematodes in my vegetable beds to help control wireworms and other soil dwelling, vegetable gorging bugs. I also sacrifice a few store bought spuds and carrots and bury them into the soil a few weeks before planting, lifting them out every few days to see if I’ve caught any wireworms which then get tossed into a bucket of soapy water.

Also, rotating crops is important as it stops any particular pest from getting too comfortable and establishing a community. So, don’t plant the same thing from the same family in the same spot year after year (that’s another article to come).

Easy to grow, ever so tasty. Remember… herbs, garlic, shallots, a dab of butter, a little water to help steam them all wrapped up in foil and placed on the barbeque. Yum.

Some preparedness authorities recommend storing at least 14 gallons of water per person, which amounts to a two-week supply. This would mean a family of 4 would want to store approximately 56 gallons of water.

Water stored improperly can be an exercise in futility, and even be hazardous to health. Here are some basic tips for storing water safely over extended periods of time.

Choose the right containers for storing drinking water

There are many types of containers available for storing water for long term, but not all are intended for storing drinking (potable) water. Rain barrels, for example, are great for collecting and storing water for garden use, but are likely not ‘food grade’. Here are a few suggestions for choosing containers for storing drinking water:

Store water in multiple containers, large and small
Although it’s good to have a large volume of water stored, you should have some set aside in smaller, portable containers light enough to carry during an emergency. Be sure to take into consideration that water weighs 8 lbs per gallon. Two-liter pop bottles are a good option for inexpensive small-volume water storage. Over time these water containers can break down and leak. It is recommended to not store them next to food or other items that can be damaged by water. It is not recommended to use milk jugs for storing water; these jugs can become brittle and break down within a short period of time. Glass containers are not recommended for water storage because they can crack during a freeze or break easily during an emergency.

Choose heavy-duty, ‘food-grade’ polyethylene barrels for bulk water storage
These barrels are often blue in color (blue means water is being stored, red would mean fuel or flammable liquid is being stored, and colors other than blue may not be food grade plastic) and normally hold 40 – 50 gallons. Ideally, an outlet spigot should be mounted on the side of the barrel for decanting or draining.

For storing larger quantities, you can buy industrial-type water tanks that store 250+ gallons. These food-grade plastic bladders are housed in a metal cage and can be stacked two or three high. Remember: 250 gallons of water weighs 2,000 pounds, plus about 150 pounds for the cage. Make sure your flooring can support this weight.

Clean water storage containers before filling

Before storing your water, it’s a good idea to wash and sanitize the container. This can be done by mixing 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of liquid household chlorine bleach to one quart (1 liter) of water. Do not use bleach that has scents, additives or thickeners. Another option is to use hot tap water and detergent, followed by thorough rinsing. Never use a container that has previously held toxic substances. Once filled, seal containers tightly.

Label containers clearly as “drinking water”, and include the date

Mark or label drinking water containers to avoid confusion during emergencies. Opaque or colored containers especially should have the contents clearly marked on an easily visible part of the container. It’s also a good idea to mark the date the container was filled to facilitate rotation and ensure freshness.

Store water containers in a dark and cool area

Light and warmth will promote algae and bacteria growth, so store water in a basement, closet, shed or food storage room. Do not store water bottles on top shelves; lower to the ground is preferred. Storing your barrel outside could have an effect on the life of the barrel. It is not recommended to store any water container in direct or indirect sunlight. Also, it is best to store water barrels with a non-porous insulation barrier (such as wood) between a cement floor and the barrel.

Water stored in plastic containers should be kept away from gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances because vapors from these products can penetrate plastic. Containers which have top-mounted screw lids should have the tops covered with a cloth or similar barrier to keep lids clean of mice or insect waste.

Secure heavy water storage barrels from tipping

Heavy containers should always be stored close to ground level and secured to prevent breakage or tipping in the event of any earthquake or natural disaster, or if someone stands on them to access higher stored items. Rope or strapping should surround the container near the top and be secured to a cleat or similar wall-mounted fixture.

Anticipate winter freezing

Be sure to allow for expansion of water during freezing conditions. If there is not enough room at the top of your barrel, it can cause your barrel to become disfigured or cracked. It is recommended to only fill the barrel 90% full if you plan on storing it in a place where there is a potential for freezing.

Use water filters or treat suspect water with bleach during an emergency

If your water is treated commercially by a water utility, it is not necessary to treat it before storing. For added security, water filters and purifiers are available which treat from 25 to as much as 60,000 gallons of water. These items are a valued addition to your portable and stationary water storage to insure water quality for your family.

If you are unsure about the quality of available stored water during an emergency, it is recommended to use 6 drops of unscented bleach per gallon of water. For large quantities of water, stir the water and allow it to stand for 30 minutes. You should be able to smell chlorine after the 30-minute waiting period. If you cannot, add another dose and let the water stand another 15 minutes. Water purification tablets are also available where camping supplies are sold. These may be effective at removing some, but not all contaminants from water.

Replace stored water once a year for freshness

Water stored properly can last for years. However, to ensure freshness it is recommended to replace stored water once a year. Old stored water can still be used for watering the garden or shrubs, car washing and other purposes. It’s usually easiest to siphon water out of the barrels if drain plugs are not provided.

Once you’ve filled, labeled and stored your emergency water supply, bring the family together for instructions about how to access and decant water. Children should be aware of proper procedures for accessing and handling water in case adults are unavailable during emergencies.

Cordwood masonry is an old building technique whereby walls are constructed of short logs laid up widthwise in the wall within a special mortar matrix. The wall derives excellent insulation and thermal mass characteristics from insulation sandwiched between the inner and outer mortar joints. Cordwood houses are low in cost, use indigenous materials, and are easy and fun to build....

The picture on the right is a close up of a can wall. You can see how it is layered with cans and then concrete and then another layer of cans. You can also see how the tabs of the cans all point to the outside. This is done whenever possible due to the tab acting as a lathe for the adobe plaster to hold onto.

 In this picture you can see how some of the internal can walls are built. In this picture the can walls are being built around the plumbing. Another great feature of building with can walls is that you can form your walls any way you choose. We formed most of our walls with rounded corners instead of the traditional square corners.

In this picture you can see the beginning of the plastering. The plastering of the can walls starts off with a layer of concrete and then finishes with adobe or stucco depending on the location of your wall. Unlike the external can walls, the cans can't all point in the same direction because you need to plaster on each end of the cans.

This is the master bathroom. You can see the tomato plant on the left. This tomato plant produces wonderful tomatoes year round and has lasted three years. The bathtub in the background is shaped to fit your body which is real nice. People have asked us if it bothers us that people can see us through the glass, but when you live out in nature like we do the only thing watching us are the deer and God.

Hello everyone:

WELCOME NEW MEMBERS!!

I know it's been a long time since I was active on the site, but to make a long story short... I had to get me shit straight. A lot has been going on with life these days. Still working some things out, but time heals. Don't worry - not going to bore you with all the nasty details, but wanted to let you know I'm BACK!

I hope you all decide to add some new posts in the Groups and your blogs - Take Care!

People with allergies problems are probably starting to suffer again for the second time this year. Fall time is upon us. You love the beautiful colors all around but hate the runny nose and sneesing.

I haven't really researched home remedies for allergies. These are a few things i have researched for other reasons or just because i was wondering the health benefits of them. So i do strongly urg people to do their own research. These are just a few things that do work for me. and like always keep a check on how you feel when you add anything new to your diet. If you take medicine you really need to talk to you doctor before trying.

One of the better one i think is Evening Primrose Oil. I was taking this daily and didn't have any problems with my allergies at all. Till the dog we had decided to clean off my counter and chewed up my bottom and the pills. Like i have posted before the Evening Primrose Oil has many many other benefits as well.

Another is Mint tea. This is what i'm doing now. I started it last night and have drank 3 extra strong cups of hot tea. My tea is from the grocery store which i don't believe to be the better teas but they are cheaper, so i use more then the recommended one tea bag use for a cup. I use Mint tea because one it taste good, it does relax you but don't really make you sleepy, It has great health benefits other then allergies and it's caffine free.

Chamomile tea is another one. but if you have a problem with chamomile making you sleepy you may not want to drink this in the mornings or evenings. but it's great to drink before you go to bed.

Raw local Honey if you can get it. raw honey is great. it you can get it local it's made with the local pollen. and a lot better for you then any honey you can get anywhere else. now how to collect honey someone else would have to tell you that one because i have no clue.

then there is garlic. which is another kind of cure all like the evening primrose.

I'm sure there is more but these are the ones i know and use. If anyone else knows of anything more i would love to hear about it.  

Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera biennis)

Evening Primrose Oil Benefits

Evening Primrose Oil has been called the most sensational preventive discovery since vitamin C. It contains the pain relieving compound phenylalanine and is increasingly being used to treat chronic headaches. It is currently being studied all over the world as a treatment for aging problems, alcoholism, acne, heart disease, hyperactivity in children, symptoms of menopause, multiple sclerosis, weight control, obesity, PMS and schizophrenia. It has so many preventive and therapeutic qualities that it has become a standard part of recommendations of many herbalist for maintaining youth and preventing disease.

Evening Primrose Oil contains a high concentration of a fatty acid called GLA and it is this fatty acid that is largely responsible for the remarkable healing properties of the plant. In fact, Evening Primrose contains one of the highest concentrations known of this important substance and only a few other plants contain it at all. This makes Evening Primrose an important medicinal herb, and as studies continue, the list of benefits will likely become much longer. The gamma-linoleic acid, linoleic acid and other nutrients in this oil are essential for cell structure and improve the elasticity of the skin. These fatty acids also help to regulate hormones and improve nerve function aiding problems ranging from PMS to migraine headaches. The hormone balancing effect contributes to healthy breast tissue.

Specifically, evening primrose oil may help to:

Relieve the discomforts of PMS, menopause, menstruation, endometriosis and fibrocystic breasts:

By interfering with the production of inflammatory prostaglandins released during menstruation, the GLA in evening primrose oil can help to lessen menstrual cramps. It may also minimise premenstrual breast tenderness, irritable bowel flare-ups, and carbohydrate cravings, and help to control endometriosis-associated inflammation. Many PMS sufferers are found to have unusually low levels of GLA in their systems, which is why supplements might help so much. In women with fibrocystic breasts, the oil's essential fatty acids can minimise breast inflammation and promote the absorption of iodine, a mineral that can be present in abnormally low levels in women with this condition. In menopause, it is widely reported that Evening Primrose oil reduces hot flushes and increases feelings of well being.

Ease the joint pain and swelling of rheumatoid arthritis:

Supplementation with evening primrose oil and other sources of GLA has been shown to lessen the joint pain and swelling of this crippling disease. A six-month study reported fewer signs of inflammation in rheumatoid arthritis sufferers taking capsules containing GLA than in those taking a placebo. In another trial, the number of tender joints and swollen joints dropped significantly with GLA but not with a placebo.

Prevent diabetes-associated nerve damage:

Research indicates that the GLA in evening primrose oil can help prevent, and in some cases even reverse, the nerve damage (neuropathy) so commonly seen with diabetes. In a year-long study, such symptoms as numbness, tingling, and loss of sensation in participants with mild diabetic neuropathy were less marked in those who took evening primrose oil than in those who took a placebo.

Reduce the symptoms of eczema:

In some cases, eczema develops when the body has problems converting dietary fats into GLA. Getting supplemental GLA from evening primrose oil may therefore be helpful. Some studies indicate that this oil can outperform a placebo in relieving eczema-related inflammation, as well as the itching, oozing, and flaking associated with this condition. By taking GLA, eczema sufferers may tolerate reduced doses of steroid creams and drugs, many of which cause unpleasant side effects.

Help treat acne and rosacea:

By working to dilute sebum, a thick oily substance that is oversecreted in some people with acne, the essential fatty acids in evening primrose oil may reduce the risk of pores becoming clogged and lesions developing. The oil's EFAs help treat rosacea by reducing inflammation, controlling cells' use of nutrients and by producing prostaglandins, which stimulate the contraction of blood vessels.

Combat damage from multiple sclerosis:

The abundant supply of essential fatty acids in evening primrose oil may be valuable in minimizing the inflammation associated with this progressive nerve disorder. The fatty acids may also contribute to healthy nerve development when taken over time.

Treat Alzheimer's-related memory deficiencies:

By boosting the transmission of nerve impulses, evening primrose oil may be valuable in treating this progressive brain disorder.

Counter impotence and female infertility:

By promoting blood flow, the GLA in evening primrose oil can help treat a primary cause of male impotence; compromised circulation leading to impaired penile blood flow. The oil is often taken with vitamin C and ginkgo biloba for this purpose. In addition, when the oil is taken long term, GLA can help prevent blood vessel narrowing, often a consequence of plaque buildup from high cholesterol. By improving uterine function, GLA may also help those who are unable to conceive.

Nourish nails, scalp, and hair:

The rich stores of essential fatty acids in evening primrose oil not only prevent nails from cracking but also help to keep them generally healthy. In addition, the essential fatty acids nourish the scalp, making the supplement potentially valuable in treating a variety of hair problems.

Prevent alcohol withdrawal symptoms:

GLA prompts the brain to produce a specific type of prostaglandin called prostaglandin E, which works to prevent withdrawal symptoms such as depression and seizures by indirectly protecting the liver and nervous system.

Evening Primrose Oil Herb Information / Side Effects

Latin Name: Oenothera biennis

Common Names: Fever Plant, OEP, Sun Drop

Properties: Anti-aggregatory, anti-atherogenic, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-proliferative, anti-thrombotic, vasodilator

Indicated for: Acne, allergies, arteriosclerosis, asthma, cholesterol regulation, chronic headaches, diabetic nerve damage. dermatitis, eczema, hyperactivity in children, high cholesterol, impotence and female infertility, inflammation, lupus, multiple sclerosis, prostate health, psoriasis, obesity, rheumatoid arthritis, rosacea, scleroderma, treat, Alzheimer's-related memory deficiencies, upset stomach. Nourish nails, scalp, and hair. Prevent alcohol withdrawal symptoms. Relieve the discomforts of PMS (premenstrual syndrome), menstruation, menopause, endometriosis and fibrocystic breasts. Minimise premenstrual breast tenderness, irritable bowel flare-ups, and carbohydrate cravings, and help to control endometriosis-associated inflammation.

Consult a doctor first if you suffer from epilepsy, are taking anticoagulants, blood pressure medicine, blood cholesterol medicine or estrogen or other hormonal therapies.

I used a very simple and probably a cheating way to make it. Last weekend i went through the kids clothes and bagged them up for the clothing drop off. Took 3 days and 9 trash bags to get it all done. While i was going through the clothes i keep a eye out for one of the younger kids shirts that was still in good condition but stained up. So instead of trashing it i could use it. i found the shirt and yesterday i finally had time to make the bag. It was real simple. All I did was sew up the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt and had a instant bag. I used a button up shirt that way i can lower if to get to the pins if need be. I may have to sew up some of the front to keep pins from going out from between the buttons. I will find out today because i have to hang out clothes. My old apron i was using had holes all in it and the strings to it had split down the middle. the material was so thin from use that it was beyond repair. Of course it was given to me by my mother in law. and i was told she had not used a clothes line in about 20 years. So It was pretty old and needed replacing.
 

i have a picture of it but it is on my blog and for some reason will not repost to here.

I would like to personally thank Richard Ramey, for adding so many excellent and informative photos to our site recently! Very good information shared by Richard, and it doesn't go unoticed, thanks very much!

James